DISTILLING WINE, BREWING BEER AND HONEYMEAD: BEVERAGES AS THE BESERMYANS’ HOLIDAY ATTRIBUTES

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Key words
the Besermyans, food culture, traditionals drinks
Author
ELENA POPOVA
About the Author
ELENA POPOVA
E-mail: elvpopova@yandex. ru
Tel.: +7 (3412) 68-89-11
4, Lomonosova str., Izhevsk, 426004, Russian Federation
PhD (History), senior researcher, Department of Historical Studies, Udmurt Institute of History,
Language and Literature, Uralic division of the Russian Academy of Sciences
Body

There in the culture of the Besermyans drinks are considered as an integrative element of nutrition. The concept of “ciyon-yuon” — translated to Russian as “food-drink” includes food, grocery and cuisine in general. Drinks such as quass, beer, honeymead, kumyshka (homemade distilled hard liquor) are associated with agriculture as a traditional branch of production. Together with bread and porridge they were prepared to serve during calendar holidays and rites, which is witnessed by metonymic nomination of rituals as “autumn brew”, “Christmas brew”, “winter beer”, “spring brew”, “willow brew (for Palm Sunday)”; “maidens brew”, “collective farm brew”. Notions of “drinking”; “drinking brew”, “drinking beer” among the Besermyans are synonymous with entertainment, “having fun”, “hosting guests”. Preparation and consumption of beverages within ritual context were regulated by ritual, social and customary-juridical norms and obtained symbolic and status features. The Besermyans has developed drinking culture of drinking, rules of guesthood and table etiquette, special songs were performed to accompany meal drinks. Today, traditional beverages are used both in some traditional folk calendar rites and in contemporary holidays and festivals, which include elements of traditional culture and folk cuisine. Study of beverages and reconstruction of traditional technologies of brewing are important for the entire research of the material culture of the Besermyans. The paper is based on materials of field expeditions and on earlier sources.

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