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PhD in History, Assistant Professor, Teaching Scientific Centre of Social Anthropology, Russian State University for the Humanities
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24-4, Lomonosovskiy av., Moscow, 119991, Russian Federation
Assistant Professor, History Department, M. V. Lomonosov Moscow State University
This article is based on the ideas and materials fi rst presented at the III International Field Ethnographic Symposium devoted to drinks in folk culture, held in September 2018 in Izhevsk. Th e author expresses gratitude to the organizers and participants of the sympo-sium, some of whose presentations intersect with this topic.
In the modern ethnographic study of nutrition, it is customary to pay attention not only to the composition and preparation of food and drink, but also to the practices and traditions of their use, behavioural norms, elements of etiquette, and the complexes of mean-ings that they carry — the things that are included in the notion of “the culture of consump-tion”. As in many other regions of the world, in Southern Europe a stable cultural context has developed around the use of certain alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages that are attached to certain public spaces. These act as a place of communication, allowing people to preserve their sense of community and local consciousness. Various aspects of this traditional phenom-enon show considerable stability, probably going back, at least in part, to classical times. On the other hand, the culture of public spaces associated with the use of beverages (e. g., taverns, bars, cafés) is also undergoing dynamic change that aff ects the traditional image of southern European culture and which is being carefully studied by ethno-anthropologists using a num-ber of innovative approaches
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