“THE BALKANS ACCENTS” OF THE ODESSA CENTRAL MARKET (“PRIVOZ”): TO THE QUESTION OF ETHNIC COMPONENTS IN CITY CUISINE

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Key words
food system, cuisine, ethnic features, Odessa, Bulgarians, Greeks, Albanians
Author
ALEKSANDR PRIGARIN
About the Author
ALEKSANDR PRIGARIN
Е-mail: prigarin_alexand@mail.ru
Tel.: +38 (0482) 23-52-54
2, Dvoryanskaya str., Odessa, 65026, Ukraine
Full Professor (History), associate professor of Archaeology and Ethnology, Odessa National University named after I. I. Mechnikov
Acknowledgements

This reserch is supported by Grant Agency of Czech Republic (GACR) “Changes of everyday life: Continuity and discontinuity in the Post-Soviet cities” No. GA15–03269S.

Body

In article the phenomenon of “The Odessa Cuisine” as regional complex of food is investigated on the basis of written sources and field materials. Influence of the Balkan traditions on formation and development of everyday culture of inhabitants of Odessa is shown in historical dynamics.

The special attention is paid to the current state of commerce subculture and, respectively, system of food traditions in Odessa. In particular, it is shown that many of food stuffs have been introduced by natives of the Balkans (first of all — Greeks and Bulgarians), namely eggplants (aubergines), tomatoes, grapes, cheese, corn, mutton, etc.

Specific regional dishes perceived as the “Odessa cuisine” have developed on basis of these loans, but having roots in ethno-cultures of these Balkan communities. So-called “dark-blue” eggplants cooked in various ways and corn dish called “pshenka” are the brightest examples. Along with national, also the professional mass food (restaurants) is analyzed. There among restaurant recipes the Balkan substratum has occupied strong position for a long time along with Jewish, Ukrainian and Moldavian. There in the menu of these food outlets several dishes, that are of Balkan origin. are offered for sure. Special national restaurants (Bulgarian, Gagauzian, Greek) are present at Odessa the city as well.

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