E-mail: russkie@iea.ras.ru Tel.: + 7 (495) 954-84-91 32a, Leninskiy av., Moscow, 199991, Russian Federation Full Professor (History), leading researcher of Russian People department, Institute of Ethnology and Anthropology, Russian Academy of Sciences
This paper is financially supported by the grant of the Russian Fund for Humanities No. 14–01–00033 “Cultural characteristics of ethnic and local groups of Russians in historical retrospective and contemporary stage”.
The article deals with traditional clothes among several groups of Old Believers. Being descent from a single center, Old Believers have migrated and settled gradually during the 18th — early 20th centuries, created enclaves maintaining stable self-naming. Lipovans group has formed due to emigration to the west. Consequent forcing by the government has induced for- mation of the “Polyaks” (Old Believers returned from Poland) and “Semeyskie”. Old Believers’ voluntary migration further to the East along Siberia led to the resettlement in Amur the river’s basin and in Primorye on the coast of the Pacific Ocean. In order to observe changes in traditional culture, it is fruitful to analyze clothes, because this complex is the most receptive to the impact of external factors, including ecological, ethnic and historic. For each analyzed group of Old Believers, clothing is characterized according to main distinct ethnographic features and specificity is described on the basis of field research. Field data has shown varying degrees of impact of European costume on the traditional clothes. Traditional clothing was maintained stable within praying situations. In this paper the author has identified key elements of praying clothing, which denote ethnic, religious and ethnic affiliation of the carriers. The male costume has changed significantly, but its traditional elements remain uniform for all regional manifestations. Abroad, male costumes have got replenished with sheepskin products. Among the Siberian groups of Old Believers, male clothing is characterized by use of fur and skins of local animals, in the Far East — of fishing products. As regards female clothes, all the Old Believers’ groups have maintained preservation of the ancient “sarafan” (pinafore gown) complex, accompanied with penetration of the skirt (“parochka”), as well as presence of a complicated headwear. Such a common element of headdress, as a triangular headkerchief called “kosyak”), which has become the symbol of Russian Old Believers, was used among the Lipovans group. Old Believers’ clothing included decorative elements. Data set confirms the conclusion about preservation of the traditional clothing complex among local Old Believers’ groups as an integral part of the wardrobe of the Russian people, which is accompanied with the trend of group specialization under the influence of a wide range of impacts.
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